Hanfu, also known as Han clothing or Huafu, is said to have been created by the Yellow Emperor at the beginning of the Chinese civilization. Everyone knows that Hanfu is known for its exquisite attire, but do you understand the historical development and cultural connotations behind it?
Although Hanfu has undergone countless variations, its evolution has always followed certain forms, known for its unique clothing structures such as "crossed collar and right lapel," "broad-sleeved robe," and "hidden fasteners with ties."
Crossed Collar and Right Lapel: In Hanfu, the left front lapel crosses over the right front lapel at the chest, forming a crossed collar. The left lapel is tucked under the right armpit and the right lapel is covered inside, visually appearing as a "y" shape, creating an overall effect of the garment leaning to the right. China has always regarded "right" as superior, so Hanfu has always adhered to this principle. Despite various modifications over time, it has maintained the tradition of "crossed collar and right lapel."
Broad-Sleeved Robe: The sleeves of Hanfu, also known as "sleeves" or "sleevelets," have a unique style compared to the rest of the world's traditional clothing. The sleeves are actually round and represent the concept of the circular heavens and square earth. The prominent characteristic of Hanfu sleeves is their width and length. Wide sleeves display an elegant, graceful, dignified, and flowing style.
Hidden Fasteners with Ties: The hidden fasteners in Hanfu can be categorized into two types: with buttons and without buttons. Generally, Hanfu does not use buttons, and even when buttons are present, they are hidden and not exposed on the outside. Usually, the garments are tied with ribbons or knots. At the waist, there are wide belts and long belts. All the ribbons are made from the same fabric as the clothing. Each garment has two pairs of ribbons. Functionally, one pair of ribbons on the left side under the armpit is tied to the ribbon of the right lapel, and one pair on the right side under the armpit is tied to the ribbon of the left lapel, completing the dressing process by tying both pairs of ribbons.
Development History of Hanfu: Throughout history, clothing has undergone significant changes along with the changes in dynasties, resulting in various styles and designs. Today, let's explore the different styles of Hanfu worn during different dynasties.
Xia, Shang, and Zhou Dynasties: The basic typical features of clothing during this period were crossed collar, right lapel, and ties. The combination of a top and bottom garment was the most basic style, and even today, the Chinese language still uses the term "衣裳 (yī shang)" as a general term for clothing. In various oracle bone and bronze inscriptions, one of the commonly seen forms of the character "衣 (yī)" represents the image of a crossed collar and right lapel garment. The lower garment that complements the crossed collar, right lapel, and tied top garment is called "裳 (shang)."
Qin and Han Dynasties: Clothing during the Qin and Han periods can be roughly divided into two styles: curved and straight garments, which were worn by both men and women. The curved garment, known as "quju," was the most common style for women's clothing. It was narrow and tight-fitting, reaching the ground, with flared lower edges resembling a trumpet, concealing the feet. Due to improvements in underwear during
Qin and Han Dynasty: During the Qin and Han Dynasty, Hanfu clothing can be roughly divided into two types: quju (curved-hem) and zhiju (straight-hem). Both men and women could wear them. Quju deep garments were the most common type of clothing for women. They were fitted and narrow, long enough to trail on the ground, and usually had flared hems resembling a trumpet shape without showing the feet.
Due to improvements in undergarments during the Han Dynasty, quju deep garments became unnecessary, so after the Eastern Han Dynasty, zhiju gradually became popular. The ruqun style typically had a short upper garment that reached only to the waist, while the skirt was long and draped down to the ground.
During the Han Dynasty, various aspects of Chinese culture, economy, politics, and military experienced unprecedented prosperity and strength. The clothing and ceremonial systems were highly developed, and the term "Hanfu" indirectly originated from this period.
Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties: During the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, the style of Hanfu became elegant and graceful. Scholars of the Wei and Jin period often wore loose outer garments, sometimes with unique undergarments similar to modern-day camisoles, without wearing inner garments. Influenced by northern nomadic tribes, men in the central plains began to adopt upper garments and trousers during this era. Ku (a type of narrow trousers) and pants were interchangeably used, and high-toothed wooden clogs became popular.
The clothing style during the Wei and Jin period inherited from the Eastern Han Dynasty pursued a lavish and magnificent style. People added hanging ribbons and decorations next to worn-out hats and worn-out shoes, giving a sense of elegance. This was described as "Huake Feizao" (华袿飞髾) in contemporary poetry, meaning a graceful and flowing attire.
Sui and Tang Dynasty: In the Sui and Tang Dynasty, the main dress for women remained ruqun, which consisted of a skirt, a top, and a cape. Among women, the qixiong ruqun, which raised the lower skirt to the chest, was popular and paired with a cape. Among noblewomen, there were also formal dresses adorned with hairpins and jewelry. Hanfu during this period commonly used floral patterns in its decorative craftsmanship. The designs were lively, free-flowing, well-balanced, and bold in color. Clothing patterns aimed to express a free, abundant, and plump artistic style.
In men's clothing during the Tang Dynasty, the hooded robe (futoupao) was in fashion. The futou, also known as fuzhou, was a type of headwear that evolved from the folded cloth worn during the Han and Wei periods. Besides wearing round-collared narrow-sleeved robes, officials still wore ceremonial attire on important occasions such as sacrificial ceremonies, which included wearing ceremonial hats and robes, as well as accessories like waistbands with jade pendants.
Song Dynasty: During the Song Dynasty, due to the political atmosphere in the early years, Hanfu became less luxurious and instead became simple and plain. The clothing for Han Chinese men during the Song Dynasty followed two traditional styles: the Dajin and the Yiren, which featured large lapels, right-over-left closure, and round collars.
In comparison, Song Dynasty women's clothing had more variations based on the previous generation's basic styles. The Bèi (a type of jacket) in the Song Dynasty had long sleeves and a long body, with the crotch open under the armpits. This means that the front and back of the garment were not sewn together, and instead, there were straps under the armpits and at the back.
During the Ming Dynasty, Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang issued an edict to restore the traditional Hanfu attire, stating that the "dress and headwear systems should be the same as the Tang and Song dynasties." The basic clothing style for men followed the Dajin and Yiren styles, but also incorporated some characteristics of Yuan Dynasty clothing, developing unique features such as trailing garments (yesa).
Women's clothing during the Ming Dynasty still revolved around the Ruqun. Distinctive and popular styles for women included the Nü'e (a type of jacket) and Nüshan, which were often paired with pipa sleeves (sleeves with a curved shape resembling a lute) with decorative collars. Skirts were commonly accompanied by horse-faced pleated skirts and regular pleated skirts. In addition to the traditional Shān (top), Bèi (jacket), and skirts, new styles such as Xiapi (a type of overcoat), Bǐjiǎ (a type of short vest), and other variations became popular, showcasing a peak in the diversity and craftsmanship of clothing.
During the Ming Dynasty, adult men often wore loose straight-bodied garments, with square flat headdresses on their heads. The common people typically wore short jackets with headscarves. During this time, a small cap made by sewing together six or eight pieces of cloth emerged, resembling a halved watermelon. Originally worn by servants, it became widely popular due to its convenience.
During the Qing Dynasty, Han women retained the styles of Ming Dynasty Hanfu during the Kangxi and Yongzheng periods. The popular styles included small-sleeved tops and long skirts. After the Qianlong period, clothing gradually became looser and shorter, with wider cuffs and the addition of cloud shoulders. There was constant innovation in patterns. By the late Qing Dynasty, urban women had abandoned skirts and started wearing pants. The expensive part of their clothing was often decorated with embroidered borders and intricate designs.
Hanfu, as an important carrier of traditional culture, has developed over thousands of years. It has formed a clothing culture system that is inclusive, diverse, and uniquely Eastern in style. It is a cultural symbol that combines beauty and meaning.