The History of the Northern and Southern Dynasties
The Northern and Southern Dynasties (420–589) refer to a period in Chinese history when the country was divided between the Northern Dynasties and the Southern Dynasties. This era began in 420 AD with the establishment of the Song dynasty in the South and ended in 589 AD with the Sui dynasty's conquest of the Chen dynasty in the South.
The Southern Dynasties (420–589) followed the Eastern Jin dynasty and included four dynasties: the Song, Southern Qi, Liang, and Chen. All these dynasties had their capital in Jiankang (modern-day Nanjing, Jiangsu Province). The Northern Dynasties (386–581) followed the Sixteen Kingdoms period and consisted of five dynasties: the Northern Wei, Eastern Wei, Western Wei, Northern Qi, and Northern Zhou. The Northern Wei eventually split into Eastern Wei and Western Wei; Eastern Wei was succeeded by Northern Qi, and Western Wei by Northern Zhou, which later conquered Northern Qi.
Historically, the four Southern dynasties—Song, Qi, Liang, and Chen—are collectively referred to as the Southern Dynasties.
The Northern Dynasties is a general term for the contemporary and coexisting northern regimes during this period, which included the Northern Wei, Eastern Wei, Western Wei, Northern Qi, and Northern Zhou dynasties. The Northern Wei, Eastern Wei, Western Wei, and Northern Zhou were established by the Xianbei people, while Northern Qi was founded by sinicized Xianbei people.
Characteristics of Clothing During the Northern and Southern Dynasties
The Northern and Southern Dynasties period marked a significant transformation in the history of ancient Chinese clothing. During this time, due to the migration of a large number of nomadic peoples (Hu people) to the Central Plains, their style of dress—referred to as "Hu clothing"—became fashionable. The characteristics of Hu clothing included tight-fitting garments, round collars, and slits.
During the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, the influence of Daoist and Buddhist thought, particularly the ideas of Laozi and Zhuangzi, became prevalent. This "Wei-Jin demeanor" was also reflected in the clothing culture of the time. Loose, flowing garments with wide belts became popular among both the nobility and the common people. Men's clothing often featured an open chest and exposed arms, emphasizing a relaxed, natural, and casual style. The scholars of the Wei and Jin periods were known for wearing large, loose outer garments, sometimes with nothing underneath except for a unique inner garment similar to today’s tank tops, with no middle layer of clothing—this style was unique to this era.
Women's clothing featured long skirts that trailed on the ground, wide, flowing sleeves, and multiple layers of decorative sashes, creating an elegant and ethereal appearance.
Were the Clothing Styles of the Northern and Southern Dynasties Considered Hanfu
Hanfu, short for "traditional clothing of the Han people," also known as Han attire, Han clothing, or Hua clothing, refers to the traditional clothing and accessory system of the Han ethnic group. It originated from the time of Emperor Huangdi and continued until the mid-17th century (late Ming and early Qing dynasties). Hanfu is characterized by its distinct Han ethnic style and personality, formed through natural evolution under the influence of the Huaxia-Han culture and its ritual customs, and it is clearly distinguished from the traditional clothing of other ethnic groups.
The clothing styles during the Northern and Southern Dynasties are considered Hanfu.
Southern Dynasties: The Eastern Jin, Song, Qi, Liang, and Chen dynasties were Han Chinese dynasties, so they naturally wore Hanfu.
Northern Dynasties: Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei ordered the adoption of Han civilization, including speaking the Han language and wearing Hanfu.
Illustrated Guide to Clothing of the Southern Dynasties
During the Northern and Southern Dynasties period, there was a significant cultural fusion with the Xianbei people, resulting in a variety of clothing styles. Some of these styles incorporated elements from the clothing of other ethnic groups, leading to greater diversity in fashion. This illustrated guide presents the different styles from the same period, showcasing the variations in fashion. (The illustrations are based on contemporary murals, artifacts, historical records, and tomb reports, with some imaginative restoration of the clothing. Please forgive any inaccuracies.)
Below are some images
